Oops!! Didn't know there was an explosion
Thanks man. I have been a silent observer of this thread whose quality is going down by the day.

Hey can anyone over here explain difference between japan make r15 and 2010 r15... Thanx in advance

The Japanese R15 has a supercharger and a turbo kit attached to it. so it can do 1500Miles per hour. Whereas the local made R15s have nothing.

Jokes apart,

They say the quality has degraded but afaik its just rubbish. The quality is the same for both the bikes.

Happy to help.
The kit consists of the side fairings (2 Left + 2 Right), & the panel below the radiator.
The fairings look the same & are made up of a better material now I believe. It is supposed to be more resistant to impact I am told, & will probably burn less easily than the earlier ones.
The panel below the radiator which earlier had 2 gaping holes, now has mesh installed. The mesh is same as the one in the right side fairing.

I have put up details in my post some 2 months back on this thread. You can search for it.

You're lucky! Dealers in my place have no idea about this Free Fairing Replacement Scheme.

i own a 2010 august R15 and my bike don't have wire mesh under radiator like newer one's so do i qualify for burning kit?

I did read your report on the kit some 2 months back.

Actually it makes perfect sense - the gaps can allow some combustible material to come in contact wit the exhaust and hence can be a fire hazard.

While what I was thinking was along these lines - how can the ABS plastic material of the older fairing catch fire easily compared to the newer kit.

i own a 2010 august R15 and my bike don't have wire mesh under radiator like newer one's so do i qualify for burning kit?

how come everyones brake pads wearing away at 6k-7k kms, i have also done 6k , no signs of wear and tear

Very truly said brother, though its a bit disappointing

I cannot think of any other changes that may have been made.

^^^ there are two (that i know of) major differences between these bikes.

First, as you pointed out is the ecu. The current lot of bikes have a revised ignition map. This is supposedly to help improve the initial pickup.

Second, is the clutch system. The current lot of bikes shares the clutch basket, clutch plates and pressure plates with the fz16. This is supposedly to take care of the clutch basket noise and transmission knock that cropped up in with the old clutch system. However, note that clutch basket noise and the transmission knocking was nominal and did not effect the performance of the bike.

Other than that is the radiator change, which was retro fitted in the old bikes. Though i have not run into any problems with the old radiator.

I cannot think of any other changes that may have been made.

I got my bike serviced yesterday in Free Servicing camp. They changed the kit (consisting of the side fairings (2 Left + 2 Right), & the panel below the radiator).
However, they didn't service the bike properly. My bike had high idle RPM before servicing. After servicing the idle rpm is still high and bike stalls sometimes while starting up. Finally fed up with their work I decided to do it myself. I referred to http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-idle-rpm.html and turned the screw clockwise (after warmup and while engine was running ). The idle rpm decreased a bit but at the same time I saw liquid started flushing out at the bottom via one of the two exhale pipes. I checked the liquid and it was non sticky water type. I assume it is coolant(correct me if I am wrong)
I don't think that there was any relation between setting idle rpm and coolant getting flushed out. So I continued setting the rpm.
However, I found that coolant was flushed without stop and later vapor was coming out of the pipe. I stopped setting idle RPM, switched off the bike and decided to take the bike to SVC earliest (tomorrow morning). The amount of coolant flushed was immense and I doubt the flushing to be a normal activity(I haven't seen any such stuff in my last 1.5 yrs of ownership).
I am posting the pics(Sorry for the poor quality of pics). Any help is appreciated.

I got my bike serviced yesterday in Free Servicing camp. They changed the kit (consisting of the side fairings (2 Left + 2 Right), & the panel below the radiator).
However, they didn't service the bike properly. My bike had high idle RPM before servicing. After servicing the idle rpm is still high and bike stalls sometimes while starting up. Finally fed up with their work I decided to do it myself. I referred to http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-idle-rpm.html and turned the screw clockwise (after warmup and while engine was running ). The idle rpm decreased a bit but at the same time I saw liquid started flushing out at the bottom via one of the two exhale pipes. I checked the liquid and it was non sticky water type. I assume it is coolant(correct me if I am wrong)
I don't think that there was any relation between setting idle rpm and coolant getting flushed out. So I continued setting the rpm.
However, I found that coolant was flushed without stop and later vapor was coming out of the pipe. I stopped setting idle RPM, switched off the bike and decided to take the bike to SVC earliest (tomorrow morning). The amount of coolant flushed was immense and I doubt the flushing to be a normal activity(I haven't seen any such stuff in my last 1.5 yrs of ownership).
I am posting the pics(Sorry for the poor quality of pics). Any help is appreciated.

hahahah.



cylinders?

Juris the flushing out liquid is indeed coolant. Take it to service center, tell them to check the hose pipe of radiator as well as coolant tank. Also tell them about setting the idling RPM which should be 1500RPM (+/-100rpm). Try to check yourself tomorrow before riding the bike, if the radiator cap is properly tight or not. And yes also dont forget to top up the coolant tank. Keep us updated

Pardon my saying so, but your friend is either a moron or has the habit of listening to morons!!!!

What he is talking about is called or is a variation of what is known as Nikasil coating. The Nikasil coating process was developed by the famous German firm Mahle for use in Wankel engines. Subsequently it was also used by many major auto companies of regular I.C. piston engines. If my recollection is right Hero Puch was one of the first to introduce Nikasil plated cylinders in their mopeds (I can't recall who the other company). However, the Nikasil plated cylinders never really took off as they were venerable to bad fuel and air quality.

Now to why your friend is a moron; I am assuming (and I am most probably right) that he has been talking to someone who has seen the R15 cylinder or has seen one of these Nikasil coated cylinders. When one sees these type of cylinders the first impression that is formed is that its chrome plated. Well the fact is that it is not simple chrome plating. To cut the long story short; there is different metallurgy and processes involved. Also these type of coated cylinders DO NOT have the traditional cylinder liner.

Incidentally Yamaha calls its process DiASil wherein it has developed a patented process to use an aluminum alloy which is coated onto the cylinder to create a hard abrasion resistant liner.

Simple chrome plating will not last even 5 minutes and will quite possibly wreak the engine.